Eiger North Face (Heckmair Route)

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Cu aproximativ 2 ani in urma, citeam fascinat cartea Paianjenul Alb, scrisa de H. Harrer, si recunosc ca m-am ingrozit atunci de tragediile petrecute in peretele nordic al Eigerului. “Mordwand”, era cunoscut pentru vremea rea, stanca friabila, asigurari proaste. Si totusi, prin ce putere magica a reusit el sa atraga atatea generatii ca un magnet? 

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Mordor (WI5) & Supervisor (WI6), Bad Gastein, Austria

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Topo for Mordor and Supervisor you may find here.

Team: Silvia Murgescu & Catalin Pobega

Date of climbing: February 2013

Mordor (WI5, 315 m): start at 8:00, topped out at 14:00, back at the base at 15:00.

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Schmid route, Matterhorn (TD,V,4+,M5,1280m)

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Topo for Schmid route, Matterhorn N face: click here, here and here.

After finding out the route was in excellent condition, the idea of climbing it was discussed at Chamonix’s swimming pool.

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Piz Badile via Cassin (TD, 6a, 800m)

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*Topo for Cassin route in Piz Badile, you can find here.

The NE face of Piz Badile is considered one of the six great north faces of the Alps. The clasic “Cassin route” was first climbed in July 1937 by Riccardo Cassin, V.

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Zmutt ridge, Matterhorn (D, III+)

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Between 8-9 Sept 2009, together with Silvia Murgescu we have climbed Matterhorn North-West ridge, aka “Zmutt”, starting from Schonbiel hut.  For descend, we’ve rappelled down the Hornli ridge.

Our climb up to Matterhorn summit (4478m) via Zmutt took us 24 hours, as we encountered difficulties in finding the proper route in the lower part (between Zmutt glacier and the actual ridge).

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Fil à Plomb (TD-, III, 4+, M4, 700m)

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After climbing Ginat, we still had some time for a one-day route. So, on 31 March 2012 we’ve aimed for “Le Fil à Plomb” in Rognon du Plan, see the topo here. It’s a 700 m ice route, in the Aig du Midi N Face.

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