Frendo spur (D, III, 5c, 80°,1200m)
Aug 14
Climbing in Alps frendo spur, topo fredo spur No Comments
Date: 13 Aug 2016
Climbing partner: Elena
Topo Frendo Spur: here
Route description: here
On 12 Aug 2016 we took the 17:00 cable car up to intermediate station of the Aiguille du Midi and bivouacked 100 m further up.
Departure time/duration:
03:45 – Start from bivouac
10:00 – Finish the rock part
12:30 – Finish the ice part
13:00 – Aig du Midi lift
We’ve climbed the rock part of the route only in mountain boots, the difficulties are not the grade of the climb on the rock part (5c) but more in route finding and the length. Pay attention also at the loose terrain, there are some big rocks that are moving!
Make sure you get to the upper part (snow ridge and ice) early in the day to climb it in good condition!
All in all, a fantastic N face route in a complex alpine terrain. Highly recommended!
Gear we used: one 50 m half rope, 8 quickdraws, friends BD C4 (#0.3-#1.0), few slings, 5 ice screws, crampons and 2 technical ice axes.
More photos: here