M6 Solar_Pointe Lachenal (TD, M5+, 200m)

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Date of climb: 31 March 2017
Climbing partnerMihnea Prundeanu
Topo for M6 Solar: here

As Mihnea (a Romanian Mountain guide) was in Chamonix keen for climbing, I came with the idea of climbing M6 Solar – a 200m mixed route in Pointe Lachenal rated M5+. I had fresh infos from Ovidiu Mihail that climbed it 2 weeks before. The route was dry, but looked fun in the pictures. Let’s do it!

First bin up to Aig du Midi, skiing quick to the base of Point Lachenal we could hope to be the first team in the route. But to our surprise, there was already a team of French girls in the 2nd pitch.

Switching from ski boots to mountain boots, we decided to take no backpack in the route with us. As I start climbing, I link the 1st and the 2nd pitch. There is one crux in the 2nd pitch, as you exit the dry chimney doing an athletic movement. But is well protected with a fixed gear in place (peg).

Next pitches are technical as well as there is no ice (no ice screws used) but good protection all the way and fun.

We found belays in place on entire route. We decided to climb to the top of Point Lachenal and then descend walking around. It’s much faster and you should consider the risk of getting stack your ropes when trying to abseil down the route.

As a gear wise, we have used cams #0.3-#2 and a set of wires. No pitons needed and no ice screws for the actual conditions.

Our time for the climb: 10:00 -start of climbing, 13:30 – back to the skis.

The end.





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